Helsinki Nova: The Exhibitionists

Helsinki, Restaurants + Cafes

I have a new crush: The Exhibitionists Cafe in Töölö. An international, french influenced place with used books, very peaceful. Free wifi. Small, though, and they are also a little shop with some nicely designed paper items, coffee supplies and used books.

Last week I went there for the first time to recover after a visit to the hospital, during which an otherwise very nice nurse dug around in my arm for a vein unsuccessfully for a while before giving up and switching arms, as I tried to make her feel better about it all, while I submited to the drilling of my second arm. At least there was symmetry in the bandages. And wonderful coffee and food to follow:

Latte at the Exhibitionists

The show stopper was the lunch. Not pictured here: a giant pile of fresh herbs (mint, thai basil and cilanto). Yum!

Salad at the Exhibitionists

It held up to a second visit as well. And I like the music they play. They have aeropress, frenchpress, kalita pour-overs, and a nice tea selection, too.

Vappu, the Finnish May Day

Finnish-ness, Helsinki, Nature

Two weeks ago we celbrated Vappu. It is the Finnish May Day, and Vappu Eve is the Finnish Walpurgis Night, something I remember reading about first in Goethe’s Faust. It still exists.

The official beginning of Spring, a sort of labour day and student day rolled into one, marking the half-way between the equinox and the summer solstice, it involves two days of crazyness, and wearing old hats that people get when they graduate from upper secondary school (high school).

A statue in the city centre gets a hat, too:

The crane is so they can put the hat on the statue!

The crane is so they can put the hat on the statue!

Yellowed hats are supposed to recall many years of successful Vappu celebrations. On Vappu Eve, there is a lot of drinking on the street, particularly sparkling wine and champagne. This is Vappu Eve perfection:

A Vappu master

A Vappu master!

The day after this revelry there is a picnic in Kaivopuisto, which was inundated with portable saunas. As per tradition, the weather was cold and rainy– but still beautiful.

Vappu sky over our picnic

Vappu sky over our picnic

After a couple of hours we retreated inside for 9 hours of relaxed revelry with friends. It was extremely fun. A tremendous amount of food was consumed.

The birds were still partying the next day:

After party for the crows

After party for the crows

When the storm cleared away, leaving this amazing sky:

Vappu storm clearing

Vappu storm clearing

Welcome Spring!

Juuri– a second visit

Helsinki, Restaurants + Cafes

A visiting friend invited me to Juuri for the first time last fall and it was fun. The food is presented well, but I think they make a wee bit too much of a fuss over their unique concept of Finnish tapas. This time, a group of us were coming in for a late afternoon drink and snack after a tour of galleries nearby. It was four in the afternoon, but the waitress still seemed to be pushing a bit for people to order a main course, or more tapas. That aside, it is a nice place and a favourite of visitors, since they have a lot of traditional flavours on the menu. One of the plates I ordered– the special of the day– was not too special, but the fish was delicious.

2014.4JuuriFish

More magical mythical Finland

Art Design Music, Helsinki, Nature

Another foray into magical and mythical Finland.

This one included pre-historic rock paintings:

2014.4Kirkkonummirock

This was in a stunning location; it certainly felt magical there.

And a visit to the Jugendstil villa of Eliel Saarinen:

2014.4HvitträskDoor

2014.4Hvitträskiron

2014.4Hvitträskmuseum

2014.4Hvitträskarch

Eliel Saarinen is well-known for the design of the central railway station in Helsinki. Although I am not a hug fan it is quite famous. Eliel Saarinen also designed plans for the extension of Helsinki towards Munkkiniemi, Munkkivuori and Haaga, but their realization proved to be too expensive.

A day with these sights is fairly amazing, I think. Finland, and Finnish mythology in particular, as an inspiration for J. R. R. Tolkein seems obvious in these magical places. I think any fan of Lord of the Rings or the Hobbit would appreciate the little wonders lying hidden in the Finnish forest.

A trip to the Gallen-Kallela museum

Art Design Music, Helsinki, Nature

Finland had a strong Jugenstil movement at the beginning of the last century, resulting in many fairy-tale buildings throughout Southern Finland, like the Gallen-Kallela Museum.

Akseli Gallen-Kallela Museum

Jugend or Art Nouveau is characterized by organic forms that recall a semi-imaginary fairytale past in Finland. Much art from the era references the Kalevala– the national epic that was compiled by Elias Lönnrot in the 19th century. In places like this it is easy to imagine Finland and the Kalevala serving as inspiration for Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit.

The museum was a home that Gallen-Kallela built with his wife after extensive traveling outside of Finland. While he was a fantastic painter, the museum does not have a large collection of his paintings, but it has amazing examples of other things he made.

Including furniture he carved by hand:

Gallen-Kallela carved furniture

He also designed the flag flying at the museum, with the intention that it would be Finland’s national flag. Apparently he was not enthused about the blue and white cross.

The walk out from , at the Munkkiniemi end of the N. 4 tram line was beautiful, even in stormy weather. It takes less than half an hour, and follows the water most of the way. You can reward yourself for the trek by visiting a sweet little cafe there, older that the Art Nouveau castle, and pictured above.

It was haunting; worth a visit and the walk is highly recommended!

Hoku on herkku

Helsinki, Restaurants + Cafes
Lunch at Hoku

Lunch at Hoku

The other day I got to have lunch at Hoku , a little restaurant in Helsinki I had been wanting to go to for a very long time. It was so good that even though I was having lunch with someone I had just met and felt a little ridiculous I had to take a photo of the furikake encrusted siika over udon noodles. Siika is sometimes translated just as common whitefish. It is a medium sized lake fish with delicate white flesh well-loved in Finland.

Very nice people, too! Lunch was wonderful.